The golden hour in the sand

Late afternoon is my favorite time in the desert. During the middle of the day I usually look for shade, drink more tea than I planned, and wait for the heat to ease. Then the light begins to change. The dunes that looked pale and flat a few hours earlier suddenly pick up deep orange and gold tones, and every ridge becomes easier to see.

Sand dunes catching the last light of the day in the Sahara — The hour before sunset often gives the dunes their strongest colors.

What I notice most is the contrast. Long shadows stretch across the sand and make the landscape look larger than it already is. The air cools enough that walking becomes comfortable again. People pull out cameras, of course, but there is usually a point when everyone stops taking photos and simply watches the sun sink lower.

Under a canopy of stars

After sunset the desert stays quiet. There is a short period of fading light, then the sky gradually fills with stars. If you spend most of your time near towns or cities, the difference is surprising. You do not have to search for stars here. They appear everywhere.

I remember lying on a blanket after dinner and trying to identify a few constellations. I am not very good at it. Every time I thought I had found the right pattern, another cluster of stars caught my attention. On clear nights the Milky Way is easy to see crossing the sky, and it gives you a good excuse to stay awake longer than planned.

The combination of a quiet camp, cool evening air, and a sky without city lights is one of the reasons many travelers remember the night more clearly than the drive into the desert. The dunes change color for an hour. The stars stay with you until morning.